I start by walking the wall and looking for where the water's getting in, because joints that keep washing out usually have a reason behind them. Old stone needs a mortar that lets the wall dry out, so before we start I tell you which mortar we plan to use and why. Then our crew clears the loose and failing mortar out of the joints, resets any stones that have worked loose, and finishes a small section first so you can judge the color, texture and depth of the joints before we do the rest. On stone that sample can need to be bigger than it would on brick, so you get a fair look at how the joints sit around stones of different sizes. Once you're happy with it we carry on, then clean the face of the wall and haul off the debris.
A lot of stone homes around here have brick chimneys, porches or additions tied in, and those joints wear the same way, so we often take care of the brick pointing on the same job. You may see repointing called pointing or tuckpointing on other bids, and it's the same work, so compare them line for line. If the stone is part of a foundation that's cracked, bowed or letting water into the basement, that's foundation repair, and I'll tell you at the estimate if your wall needs more than new joints.
Repointing an existing stone wall
This suits a wall that's still standing straight but losing mortar, which is most of what we see on older homes. We replace the worn joints with mortar suited to the stone, so the wall keeps shedding water and drying out the way it was built to.
Resetting loose or fallen stones
When stones have shifted or dropped out, we take down only the loose part, clean the stones and set them back in fresh mortar. Saving the original stone keeps the wall looking like itself instead of looking patched.
New rubble or ashlar stonework
Rubble work uses rough, uneven stones for a rustic look that suits garden walls and older houses, while ashlar uses squared stones laid in neater rows. We'll talk through both at the estimate and pick the one that fits your house and your budget.